Sources by Dynasty

Sources on Chinese fashion history sorted by Dynasty

Last updated: 5 March 2024

Spring-Autumn/Warring States/Qin/Han

春秋戰國秦漢

  • James, J. M. (1986). Silk, China and the drawloom. Archaeology, 39(5), 64-65. 

  • Kinney, A. B. (2014). Exemplary Women of Early China. New York: Columbia University Press.

  • Kuhn, D. (1979). The Spindle-Wheel: A Chou Chinese Invention. Early China, 5, 14-24. 

  • Kuhn, D. (1995). Silk weaving in ancient China: From geometric figures to patterns of pictorial likeness. Chinese Science(12), 77-114. 

  • Li, B., Liu, A. D., Li, Q., & Yang, X. M. (2013). Study on the evolution of the looms in ancient China. Paper presented at the Advanced Materials Research.

  • Lullo, S. (2019). Trailing Locks and Flowing Robes: Dimensions of Beauty during China's Han dynasty (206 bc – ad 220). Costume, 53, 231-255. doi:10.3366/cost.2019.0122

  • Lullo, S. A. (2009). Toiletry case sets across life and death in early China (5th c. BCE -3rd c. CE) (Ph.D., University of Pittsburgh). Retrieved from http://pqdd.sinica.edu.tw/doc/3400443 數位化論文典藏聯盟(Digital Dissertation Consortium) database. (3400443)

  • Lullo, S. A. (2016). Making up Status and Authority: Practices of Beautification in Warring States through Han Dynasty China (Fourth Century BCE–Third Century CE). Fashion Theory, 20(4), 415-440. 

  • Von Falkenhausen, L. (2006). Chinese society in the age of Confucius (1000-250 BC): The archaeological evidence (Vol. 2): ISD LLC.

  • 刘乐乐. (2014). 从 “深衣” 到 “深衣制”——礼仪观的革变. 文化遗产(5), 111-119. 

  • 朱歌敏. (2010). 关中地区秦墓出土玉器初探 (中央民族大学). 

  • 李永珍. (2019). 内蒙古岱海地区春秋战国时期女性墓葬出土装饰品研究 (内蒙古师范大学). 

  • 李芽. (2008). 汉代化妆文化综述. 戏剧艺术(6), 100-106. 

  • 梁婉婷. (2020). 周代女性所从事的工作研究 (Master’s Thesis, 渤海大学). 

  • 梁松石. (2003). 汉代妇女眉妆粉饰谈. 北华大学学报: 社会科学版, 4(1), 34-38. 

  • 秦雯洁. (2020). 楚墓出土玉器的礼制内涵研究 (华中师范大学). 

  • 邱春林. (2007). 《礼记》 的深衣制度与设计. 东南文化(4), 81-85. 

  • 闫虹如. (2015). 张家川马家塬战国墓出土装饰品研究 (西北师范大学). 

  • 陈佳, & 王保国. (2018). 春秋战国时期重美色的社会风尚与男性审美视角. 甘肃社会科学, 4. 

Six Dynasties

魏晉南北朝

  • Allen, J. R. (1996). Dressing and Undressing the Chinese Woman Warrior. positions: asia critique, 4(2), 343-379. doi:10.1215/10679847-4-2-343

  • Altenburger, R. (2005). Is It Clothes that Make the Man? Cross-Dressing, Gender, and Sex in Pre-Twentieth-Century Zhu Yingtai Lore. Asian Folklore Studies, 64(2), 165-205.  http://www.jstor.org/stable/30030419

  • Hinsch, B. (2018). Women in early medieval China. Lanham, Maryland: Rowman & Littlefield.

  • Holcombe, C. (2013). THE XIANBEI IN CHINESE HISTORY. Early Medieval China, 2013(19), 1-38. doi:10.1179/1529910413Z.0000000006

  • Junxi, L., & Feng, G. (2005). Northern Wei Coffin Panel Paintings from Zhijiapu. Chinese Archaeology, 5(1), 209-217. 

  • Lan, F. (2003). The Female Individual and the Empire: A Historicist Approach to Mulan and Kingston's Woman Warrior. Comparative Literature, 55(3), 229-245. doi:10.2307/4125407

  • Lingley, K. A. (2010). NATURALIZING THE EXOTIC: On the Changing Meanings of Ethnic Dress in Medieval China. Ars Orientalis, 38, 50-80.  http://www.jstor.org/stable/29550020

  • Liu, I.-c. i. (2002). Shih-shuo Hsin-yü: A New Account of Tales of the World (R. B. Mather, Trans. R. B. Mather Ed. 2nd ed. Vol. 95). Michigan: Center for Chinese Studies The University of Michigan Ann Arbor.

  • Pearce, S. (2008). The Way of the Warrior in Early Medieval China, Examined through the "Northern Yuefu". Early Medieval China, 2008(2), 87-113. doi:10.1179/152991008790012862

  • Shen, C. W. (2011). Zhongguo gudai fushi yanjiu [Ancient Chinese clothing research] (1st ed.). Shanghai: Shanghai Bookstore.

  • Sheng, A. (2012). Introduction from the Guest Editor: Women's Work, Virtue and Space: Change from Early to Late Imperial China. East Asian Science, Technology, and Medicine(36), 9-38.  http://www.jstor.org/stable/43151276

  • Wong, D. C. (2000). Women as Buddhist art patrons during the Northern and Southern Dynasties. Between Han and Tang: Religious art and archaeology in a transformative period, 535-566. 

  • 古方. (2005). 曹魏王粲所创玉佩样式及佩法. 中国历史文物(3), 27-32. 

  • 宋丙玲. (2007). 淺論魏晉南北朝時期服飾中的性別轉換現象. 蘭州學刊 Lanzhou Academic Journal, 10. 

  • 左骏. (2007). 魏晋南北朝玉佩研究. 故宫博物院院刊(6), 52-67. 

  • 林秀蓉. (2011). 禮教與情教－馮夢龍〈李秀卿義結黃貞女〉扮裝意涵探析. [Between Moral Codes and Affection Codes: An In-depth Analysis of the Connotations of Gender Disguise in Feng Meng-long's Work "Li Hsiu-qing Being Brother to the Chaste Woman Huang Shan-cong"]. 高雄師大學報：人文與藝術類(30), 65-80. doi:10.7060/knuj-ha.201106.0065

  • 梅家玲. (1997). 依違於婦德與才性之間：《世說新語·賢媛篇》的女性風貌. [Fluctuations between "Feminine Virtue" and "Talent and Character": the Portrayal of Women in "Worthy Ladies," a New Account of Tales of the World]. 婦女與兩性學刊(8), 1-28. doi:10.6255/jwgs.1997.8.1

  • 蘇日娜, & 李娟. (2021). 多民族服飾融合與中華文化認同——以魏晉南北朝時期為中心的考察. 中南民族大學學報(人文社會科學版) Journal of South-Central University for Nationalities(Humanities and Social Sciences), 09. 

  • 辜嘉麗. (2017). 試論魏晉時期的女性風貌－以《世說新語》為例. 問學集(22), 185-200. 

Tang

唐代

  • Chen, B. (2017). Material Girls: Silk and Self-Fashioning in Tang China (618–907). Fashion Theory, 21(1), 5-33. doi:10.1080/1362704X.2016.1138679

  • Chen, B. (2019). Empire of style: Silk and fashion in Tang China. Seattle: University of Washington Press.

  • Hinsch, B. (2019). Women in Tang China. Lanham, Maryland: Rowman & Littlefield Publishers.

  • Kuhn, D., Chen, J., Huang, N., Li, W., Peng, H., & Zhao, F. (2012). Chinese silks. New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Press.

  • Liu, B. (2015). Physical Beauty and Inner Virtue: 'Shinü tu'in the Song Dynasty. Journal of Song-Yuan Studies, 45, 1-57. 

  • Sheng, A. (2012). Introduction from the Guest Editor: Women's Work, Virtue and Space: Change from Early to Late Imperial China. East Asian Science, Technology, and Medicine(36), 9-38.  http://www.jstor.org/stable/43151276

  • Sheng, A. (2013). Determining the Value of Textiles in the Tang Dynasty In Memory of Professor Denis Twitchett (1925–2006). Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society, 23(2), 175-195. doi:10.1017/S1356186313000151

  • Vainker, S. J. (2004). Chinese silk: A cultural history. New Jersey: British Museum Press.

  • 左丘萌, & 末春. (2020). 中國妝束. 大唐女兒行. 北京: 清華大學出版社.

  • 楊雅琪. (2006). 從《全唐詩》看唐代婦女服飾 (碩, 國立臺灣師範大學, 台北市). 

  • 陕西省考古研究院. (2015). 唐李倕墓发掘简报. 考古与文物, 6, 3-22. 

Song

宋代

  • Ebrey, P. B. (1993). The inner quarters: Marriage and the lives of Chinese women in the Sung period. California: Univ of California Press.

  • Gernet, J. (1962). Daily life in China on the eve of the Mongol invasion, 1250-1276 (H. M. Wright, Trans.). Stanford, Calif: Stanford University Press.

  • Hibarly, S. S. W. (2017). An analysis of ladies' normal dressing and their appreciation of clothes and accessories in Song dynasty [宋代仕女的日常衣飾及相關審美觀探析]. (Master’s, University of Hong Kong, Hong Kong). 

  • Hinsch, B. (2020). Women in Song and Yuan China. London: Rowman & Littlefield.

  • Kuhn, D. (2009). The Age of Confucian Rule: The Song Transformation of China. Cambridge, Massachusetts: Harvard University Press.

  • Kuhn, D., Chen, J., Huang, N., Li, W., Peng, H., & Zhao, F. (2012). Chinese silks. New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Press.

  • Liu, B. (2015). Physical Beauty and Inner Virtue: 'Shinü tu'in the Song Dynasty. Journal of Song-Yuan Studies, 45, 1-57. 

  • Shen, C. W. (2011). Zhongguo gudai fushi yanjiu [Ancient Chinese clothing research] (1st ed.). Shanghai: Shanghai Bookstore.

  • Shen, W., Chen, M., & Ji, X. (2020). Research on Women's Underwear and Aesthetic in Song Dynasty of China. Social Science and Humanities Journal, 4(3), 1827-1835. 

  • Sheng, A. Y.-Y. (1990). Textile use, technology, and change in rural textile production in Song, China (960-1279) (Ph.D., University of Pennsylvania, United States -- Pennsylvania). Retrieved from https://www.proquest.com/dissertations-theses/textile-use-technology-change-rural-production/docview/303881564/se-2?accountid=28521

  • https://rca.summon.serialssolutions.com/#!/search?ho=t&include.ft.matches=f&l=en&q= ProQuest Dissertations & Theses A&I database. (9101217)

  • Tan, R. (2014). Styles and Fabrics of Trousers in the Images of Song Dynasty. Advanced Materials Research, 1048, 236-239. doi:10.4028/www.scientific.net/AMR.1048.236

  • Vainker, S. J. (2004). Chinese silk: A cultural history. New Jersey: British Museum Press.

  • 傅伯星. (2016). 大宋衣冠 : 图说宋人服饰 (第1版 ed.). 上海: 上海古籍出版社.

  • 牛犁, & 崔榮榮. (2020). 繡羅衣裳. 北京: 中國紡織出版有限公司.

Yuan

元代

  • Halbertsma-Herold, U. (2008). Clothing Authority: Mongol attire and textiles in the socio-political complex (Master’s thesis, Leiden University, Netherlands). 

  • Hinsch, B. (2020). Women in Song and Yuan China. London: Rowman & Littlefield.

  • Huang, N. F., Chen, J. J., & Huang, G. (2013). Chinese Costumes: Seven Thousand Years of Chinese Costumes (Chinese Edition) [服飾中華—中華服飾七千年] (Vol. 2). China: Tsinghua University Press.

  • Kuhn, D., Chen, J., Huang, N., Li, W., Peng, H., & Zhao, F. (2012). Chinese silks. New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Press.

  • Lunde, K. S. (2018). 13th-14th century yuan and mongol silk-gold textiles: Transcultural consumption, meaning and reception in the mongol empire and in europe (Ph.D., University of London, School of Oriental and African Studies (United Kingdom), England). Retrieved from https://www.proquest.com/dissertations-theses/13th-14th-century-yuan-mongol-silk-gold-textiles/docview/2230912410/se-2?accountid=28521

  • https://rca.summon.serialssolutions.com/#!/search?ho=t&include.ft.matches=f&l=en&q=

  • https://rca.summon.serialssolutions.com/#!/search?ho=t&include.ft.matches=f&fvf=SourceType,Library%20Catalog,f%7CContentType,Journal%20%2F%20eJournal,f%7CLibrary,Reserve%20Periodicals%20Collection,f%7CLibrary,Non-Current%20Journals,f%7CLibrary,Journals%20Room,f&l=en&q= ProQuest Dissertations & Theses A&I database. (13910596)

  • Mao, H. W. (2021). The Art of Chinese Silks: Yuan Dynasty [中國歷代絲綢藝術：元代] (Vol. 5). Hangzhou: Zhejiang University Press.

  • Shea, E. L. (2016). Fashioning Mongol identity in China (c. 1200-1368) (Ph.D., University of Pennsylvania, United States, Pennsylvania). Retrieved from https://www.proquest.com/dissertations-theses/fashioning-mongol-identity-china-c-1200-1368/docview/1879354454/se-2?accountid=28521 ProQuest Dissertations & Theses A&I database. (10190065)

  • Shea, E. L. (2018). Painted Silks: Form and Production of Women’s Court Dress in the Mongol Empire. The Textile Museum Journal, 45, 36-55. 

  • Shen, C. W. (2011). Zhongguo gudai fushi yanjiu [Ancient Chinese clothing research] (1st ed.). Shanghai: Shanghai Bookstore.

  • Vainker, S. J. (2004). Chinese silk: A cultural history. New Jersey: British Museum Press.

Ming

明代

  • Finnane, A. (2008). Changing clothes in China: Fashion, history, nation. New York: Columbia University Press.

  • Gulik, R. H. v. (2004). Erotic colour prints of the Ming period: With an essay on Chinese sex life from the Han to the Ch'ing dynasty, B.C. 206-A.D. 1644. Leiden, The Netherlands: Sinica Leidensia.

  • Hinsch, B. (2021). Women in Ming China. Lanham, Maryland: Rowman & Littlefield Publishers.

  • Huang, N. F., Chen, J. J., & Huang, G. (2013). Chinese Costumes: Seven Thousand Years of Chinese Costumes (Chinese Edition) [服飾中華—中華服飾七千年] (Vol. 2). China: Tsinghua University Press.

  • Jiang, Y. Q. (2021). The Art of Chinese Silks: Ming Dynasty [中國歷代絲綢藝術：明代] (Vol. 6). Hangzhou: Zhejiang University Press.

  • Kuhn, D., Chen, J., Huang, N., Li, W., Peng, H., & Zhao, F. (2012). Chinese silks. New Haven, Conn.: Yale University Press.

  • Li, D., Liang, H. e., & Zhang, A. (2022). Flaunting and Consumption: Women's Headdress in the Ming Dynasty of China. Fashion Theory, 26(3), 383-398. doi:10.1080/1362704X.2021.1972631

  • Matheson, L. F. (2008). Imperial material: Textile fashions and identities in transitional China 1573-1722 (Master’s Thesis, University of California, Davis, Davis, Calif.). Retrieved from http://gateway.proquest.com/openurl?url_ver=Z39.88-2004&rft_val_fmt=info:ofi/fmt:kev:mtx:dissertation&res_dat=xri:pqdiss&rft_dat=xri:pqdiss:1463448 WorldCat.org database. 

  • Shen, C. W. (2011). Zhongguo gudai fushi yanjiu [Ancient Chinese clothing research] (1st ed.). Shanghai: Shanghai Bookstore.

  • Vainker, S. J. (2004). Chinese silk: A cultural history. New Jersey: British Museum Press.

  • Yuan, Z. (2002). Dressing the state, dressing the society: Ritual, morality, and conspicuous consumption in Ming dynasty China (PhD Thesis, University of Minnesota, Minnesota). 

  • Yuan, Z. (2007). Dressing for power: Rite, costume, and state authority in Ming Dynasty China. Frontiers of History in China, 2(2), 181-212. 

  • 巫仁恕. (1999). 明代平民服飾的流行風尚與士大夫的反應. [Changing of Fashion in Clothes and Reaction of the Gentry in Ming Dynasty]. 新史學, 10, 55-109. 

  • 巫仁恕. (2005). 奢侈的女人. 臺灣: 三民.

  • 張志云. (2009). 明代服飾文化研究. 武漢: 湖北人民出版社.

  • 徐文躍. (2023). 煌煌大明：考古、服飾、禮制. 杭州: 浙江古籍出版社.

  • 沈心潔. (2010). 《金瓶梅》中西門慶妻妾的服飾表現. 問學集(17), 39-68. doi:10.29450/wenxueji.201005.0003

  • 王圻. (1609). 類書三才圖會: 衣服圖會.

  • 王靜淵, 庄立新, 包榮華, & 唐煒. (2019). 明清近代服裝史. 北京: 化學工業出版社.

  • 蔣玉秋. (2021). 明鑒：明代服裝形制研究. 北京: 中國紡織出版社有限公司.

  • 陸楚翬. (2023). 登臺!明朝人時尚秀 : 圖解古裝衣冠之美. 臺北市: 時報文化出版企業股份有限公司.

  • 魏娜, & 孔凡棟. (2022). 彩袂蹁躚：中國傳統服裝襟邊緣飾 [Cai mei pian xian: Zhong guo chuan tong fu zhuang jin bian yuan shi (Decorations on the Edge of Chinese Traditional Costume)]. 北京: 中國紡織出版社有限公司.

Qing

清代

  • Der Ling, P. (1911). Two years in the Forbidden City. New York: Dodd, Mead.

  • Finnane, A. (2008). Changing clothes in China: Fashion, history, nation. New York: Columbia University Press.

  • Hinsch, B. (2022). Women in Qing China. Lanham, Maryland: Rowman & Littlefield Publishers.

  • Laribe, F. P. (1900). Chine. Costumes. Théâtre. Musique. Cérémonies. Transports. Opium. Bouddha : [photographie] / [Firmin Laribe]. Retrieved from WorldCat.org database.

  • Silberstein, R. (2016). Fashionable figures: Narrative roundels and narrative borders in nineteenth-century Han Chinese women’s dress. Costume, 50(1), 63-89. doi:10.1080/05908876.2015.1129859

  • Silberstein, R. (2017). Cloud collars and sleeve bands: Commercial embroidery and the fashionable accessory in mid-to-late Qing China. Fashion Theory, 21(3), 245-277. doi:10.1080/1362704X.2016.1150670

  • Silberstein, R. (2020). A fashionable century: Textile artistry and commerce in the late Qing. Seattle: University of Washington Press.

  • Vollmer, J. E. (2000). Clothed to rule the universe. Art Institute of Chicago Museum Studies, 26(2), 13-105. doi:10.2307/4104402

  • Wang, A. X. (2018). The idealised lives of women: Visions of beauty in Chinese popular prints of the Qing Dynasty. Arts Asiatiques, 73, 61-80.  https://www.jstor.org/stable/26585538

  • Wang, G. (2018). Affecting Grandiosity: Manchuness and the Liangbatou Hairdo-Turned-Headpiece Circa 1870s–1930s. In Fashion, Identity, and Power in Modern Asia (pp. 167-192): Springer.

  • Wang, Y. (2010). Idle consumers or productive workers: Leisured ladies in the urban commercial culture and the discourses of modernity in late Qing China (1860–1911) (Doctoral Dissertation, University of California, Davis, Ann Arbor, CA). Retrieved from https://www.proquest.com/dissertations-theses/idle-consumers-productive-workers-leisured-ladies/docview/808568223/se-2 

  • Wilson, M., & Wilson, V. (2010). Imperial Chinese robes from the Forbidden City. London: V&A.

  • Wilson, V. (1986). Chinese dress. London: Victoria and Albert Museum.

  • Wilson, V. (2005). Chinese textiles. London: Victorian and Albert Museum.

  • Zamperini, P. (2003). On Their Dress They Wore a Body: Fashion and Identity in Late Qing Shanghai. Positions-east Asia Cultures Critique, 11, 301-330. doi:10.1215/10679847-11-2-301

  • Zong, F. Y. (2004). Qing dai gongting fushi [Court dress in the Qing Dynasty]. Beijing: Zijincheng Chubanshe.

  • 孫彥貞. (2008). 清代女性服飾文化研究. 上海: 上海古籍出版社.

  • 王靜淵, 庄立新, 包榮華, & 唐煒. (2019). 明清近代服裝史. 北京: 化學工業出版社.

  • 魏娜, & 孔凡棟. (2022). 彩袂蹁躚：中國傳統服裝襟邊緣飾 [Cai mei pian xian: Zhong guo chuan tong fu zhuang jin bian yuan shi (Decorations on the Edge of Chinese Traditional Costume)]. 北京: 中國紡織出版社有限公司.